As with the 2003 sardine run , the first signs for 2004 are already evident in the Western Cape before the New Year is out. Our notes from the time tell the story...

Nov 30th 2003, Plettenberg Bay - We’ve just had our first sardines of the 2004 run. A kilometre long shoal is completely demolished by common dolphins, sharks, seals and birds in the space of two hours.

Dec 2nd 2003, Plettenberg Bay - Large pockets of sardines lie just behind the surfline.

Jan 2004, Plettenberg Bay - Periodic sightings of pockets and predators.

Feb 3rd 2004, Plettenberg Bay - For the last week there have been large groups of common dolphins in the area - today was exceptional. Sardines everywhere, birds diving, and an estimated 5000 common dolphins.

March 1st 2004 - Another spectacular feeding frenzy inside the bay. 1000 dolphins, a vortex of over 3000 gannets diving and a couple of Bryde's whales lunge feeding.

By mid July there are reports of large concentrations of sardines, dolphins and whales just north of East London. A team from National Geographic are apparently in the area hoping to fix a critter cam to a passing bronze whaler. Although we're excited by the news we decide to stay put until the shoals are sighted on the south coast of Natal. We hold out until the 10th of July and move north with the news that netting has commenced.

On arriving in Shelly Beach our plan is simple. We undertake standard charters to Protea Banks and look for sardine activity on the way. Previous charters that week have seen large numbers of bronze whalers although no bait balls or sardine pockets as such. On our first dive at the Northern Pinnacles we find that the ragged-tooth sharks are already here for their own (unrelated) seasonal gathering. Our second dive that day is however the most memorable.

We decide try Salmon Reef - lying closer inshore with an average depth of 25m. Upon launching we find a small pocket of sardines close to shore and we immediately bail on snorkel. Surprisingly there are few predators present. Only the occasional shad or elf (Pomatomus saltatrix) is seen attacking the shoal from below and several sardines have noticeable chunks missing as a result.

To the sardines, the initial approach of eight frantic and flapping freedivers, must resemble a group of hungry, drunken sealions and this causes the shoal to swirl and ball in panic. A living underwater tornado is then confused with sand and surge making it almost impossible to focus on any single individual. Mesmerised we all become still and only then, by approaching slowly and carefully, are we able to get right amongst the shoal without causing widespread mayhem and confusion. Excited and energised we return to the boat and continue on out to salmon reef. The last words I hear as we roll backward for the dive are "don't expect any sharks on this one".

Salmon reef is a flat slab of sandstone (the remains of an ancient fossilised dune) that becomes more interesting on it's eastern profile when it drops to the sand at 35m along an edge of gullies, overhangs and natural amphitheatres. Often silted and undiveable due to inshore conditions, it is seldom a first choice for dive charters. Today the viz is an exceptional 20-30m and the reef is hyper-active. We find a small pinnacle, smothered with batfish (Platax orbicularis) whilst a large shoal of daga salmon (kob, Argyrosomus hololepidotus, of at least 30kg each) cruise the sand at the reef's edge. We are all about to ascend when the group is suddenly split by the a large and undeniable presence of a 3 to 3.5m shark. As it glides through the group we realise the scale - this is a big animal - and our initial thoughts are Zambezi but we later decide on a very large blacktip or perhaps even a large dusky shark. Roland punches 'the air' in elation and we continue our ascent.

During the final 20min in midwater we are repeatdely approached by several medium-sized sharks (black tips mostly) while a few group members saw large hammerheads hanging at the very limit of visibility. This unusual number and variety of large sharks can only be a result of the increased activity associated with the sardine run.

Netting at Uvongo beach continues for a few more days but unfavorable winds put an end to it all. For two weeks , conditions inshore are undiveable and only Protea Banks holds out with the visibility. We continue to have excellent dives on the banks with ragged-tooth sharks and the occasional Zambezi, and as with last year, we encounter humpback whales on an almost daily basis. As for the sardines - we'll be seeing them again soon enough. JOIN US. in 2005.

Copyright Oceans Africa 2004. All rights reserved.